We stopped by the Judge Roy Bean Museum in Langtry, Texas. The Texas Department of Transportation operates the museum free of charge. They have the original building Judge Roy Bean used for his court room and saloon. Here are some pictures.
The original Jersey Lilly saloon named after the famous English Actress Lillie Langtry, internationally known as "The Jersey Lily".


Of the many colorful characters who have become
legends of the Old West. "Hanging Judge Roy Bean," who held court sessions in
his saloon along the Rio Grande River in a desolate stretch of the Chihuahuan
Desert of West Texas, remains one of the more fascinating.
According to the myth, Roy Bean named his saloon
and town after the love of his life, Lily Langtry, a British actress he'd never
met. Calling himself the "Law West of the Pecos," he is reputed to have kept a
pet bear in his courtroom and sentenced dozens to the gallows, saying "Hang 'em
first, try 'em later." Like most such legends, separating fact from fiction is
not always so easy.
Roy Bean was born in Mason County, Kentucky about
1825. At age 15 he left home to follow two older brothers west seeking
adventure. With Brother Sam, he joined a wagon train into New Mexico, then
crossed the Rio Grande and set up a trading post in Chihuahua, Mexico. After
killing a local hombre, Roy fled to California, to stay with his brother Joshua,
who would soon become the first mayor of San Diego.
There, Roy developed a reputation for bragging,
dueling and gambling on cockfights. Mayor Josh Bean appointed Roy a lieutenant
in the state militia and bartender of the Headquarters, his own saloon. In 1852,
Roy was arrested after wounding a man in a duel. He escaped, and after Mayor
Josh was killed a few months later by a rival in a romantic triangle, Roy headed
back to New Mexico where brother Sam Bean had become a sheriff.
Roy tended bar in Sam's saloon for several years
while smuggling guns from Mexico through the Union blockade during the Civil
War. Afterward, he married a Mexican teenager and settled in San Antonio, where
throughout the 1870s, he supported 5 children by peddling stolen firewood and
selling watered-down milk. His notorious business practices eventually earned
his San Antonio neighborhood the nickname Beanville.
In 1882, the Galveston, Harrisburg and San Antonio
Railroad hired crews to link San Antonio with El Paso, Texas across 530 miles of
scorching Chihuahuan Desert, infested with bobcats, rattlesnakes and scorpions
(locally called vinegaroons by local Texans). Fleeing his marriage and illegal
businesses in San Antonio, Roy headed to Vinegaroon to become a saloonkeeper,
serving railroad workers whiskey from a tent. As his own best customer, he was
often drunk and disorderly.
But with the nearest courtroom a week's ride away,
and County Commissioners eager to establish some sort of local law enforcement.
They appointed Roy Bean Justice of the Peace for Precinct No. 6, Pecos County,
Texas. Roy was just crazy, or drunk enough to accept. He packed up and moved
north from Vinegaroon to a small tent city on a bluff above the Rio Grande named
Langtry in honor of a railroad boss who had run the Southern Pacific's tracks
through it.
The name also happened to belong to a beautiful
British actress, Lillie Langtry Roy had read about and become enchanted with.
Roy built a small saloon, he named the Jersey Lilly (Lillie's moniker) which
also served as his home. He hung a tattered picture of Miss Lillie behind the
bar, and above the door, posted signs proclaiming "ICE COLD BEER" and "LAW WEST
OF THE PECOS." From here Roy Bean began dispensing liquor, justice and various
tall tales, including that he himself had named the town for actress Lillie
Langtry.
Roy Bean's justice was not complicated by
legalities; it was characterized by greed, prejudice, a little common sense and
lots of colorful language. "It is the judgment of this court that you are hereby
tried and convicted of illegally and unlawfully committing certain grave
offenses against the peace and dignity of the State of Texas, particularly in my
bailiwick," was a typical Bean ruling. "I fine you two dollars; then get the
hell out of here and never show yourself in this court again. That's my
rulin'."
One of Bean's most outrageous rulings occurred when
an Irishman was accused of killing a Chinese worker. Friends of the accused
threatened to destroy the Jersey Lilly if he was found guilty. Court in session,
Bean browsed through his law book, turning page after page, searching for
another legal precedent. Finally, rapping his pistol on the bar, he proclaimed,
"Gentlemen, I find the law very explicit on murdering your fellow man, but
there's nothing here about killing a Chinaman. Case dismissed."
In legend, Judge Roy Bean is a merciless dispenser
of justice, often called "The Hangin' Judge." But that title goes to Isaac
Parker of Fort Smith, Arkansas, who sentenced 172 men to hang and actually
strung up 88 of them. In his book "Judge Roy Bean Country," Jack Skiles says
that although Bean threatened to hang hundreds, "there's no evidence to suggest
that Judge Roy Bean ever hung anybody." One or two were sentenced and taken to
the gallows, but allowed to escape.
Despite his self-serving antics, Roy was duly
elected to the office in 1884 and often reelected, so that between 1882 and
1902, most of Roy's bizarre rulings were the law. Except for an occasional
murder, his cases consisted mostly of misdemeanor counts of drunkenness and the
crimes of smalltime con men like himself.
Roy spent most of his days sitting on the porch of
his saloon, with rifle handy. In his spare time, he served customers. His
favorites were railroad passengers, desperate for something to drink while the
train took on water. Bean served them quickly, then lingered before giving them
their change. When the train's warning whistle blew, customers swore and
demanded their change. Roy then fined them the exact amount and sent them
cursing back to their railroad cars.
In 1898, prizefighting had become illegal in most
Western states, as it was in Mexico, and promoters could find nowhere to hold
the world championship title bout between Bob Fitzsimmons and Peter Maher. On
February 22, the Jersey Lilly was packed with 200 fight fans who, after a few
rounds of drinks, followed Roy to a bridge he built to a sand bar in the Rio
Grande River. While Texas Rangers watched the makeshift ring helplessly from
atop the bluff, Fitzsimmons decked Maher in only 95 seconds. After returning to
the saloon for more drinks, the fans and sportswriters headed for El Paso, where
news stories were filed to papers throughout the U.S.
This event launched the birth of the Roy Bean
legend, which burgeoned after continued newspaper and dime novel accounts of his
exploits, many fabricated by Roy himself. The myth of Roy Bean eventually became
part of Texas folklore. In 1936, the Texas Centennial Fairgrounds displayed
replicas of Roy's saloon and office. In 1940, Walter Brennan received an academy
award for his portrayal of Roy Bean opposite Gary Cooper. In 1956, Edgar
Buchanan played him in a weekly TV series, and in the 1972, Paul Newman
portrayed him in the movie, The Life and Times of Judge Roy Bean.
For years, Roy boasted of his "acquaintance with
Miss Langtry," and promised locals she would one day arrive and sing in Langtry.
In 1896, after his first saloon was destroyed by fire, Roy rebuilt the Jersey
Lilly and constructed a home for himself across the street, which he called the
Opera House, anticipating the day when Lillie would perform there. Roy never met
Miss Lillie, but he often wrote her, and she is purported to have written back,
even sending him 2 pistols, which he cherished till his dying day.
Contrary to the Larry McMurtry novel and movie
Streets Of Laredo, Roy was not gunned down by a Mexican outlaw on the steps of
the Jersey Lilly. In March 1903, Roy went on a drinking binge in Del Rio and
simply died peacefully in his bed the following morning.
Ten months later, the Southern Pacific stopped at
Langtry and finally disgorged Lillie herself on the way from New Orleans to San
Francisco. She had decided to take the judge up on his invitation. She visited
the saloon and listened as locals told her how Roy Bean had fined a corpse,
freed a murderer and lined his pockets by shortchanging train passengers. "It
was a short visit," Lillie later wrote in her autobiography, "but an
unforgettable one."
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